80 Trebarwith Strand - Tintagel - Boscastle

Trebarwith Strand

We set out from Trebarwith Strand: the tide was in and no beach was visible, just a large slab of rock. Gull Rock continued to dominate the horizon. We then made the steep climb up to the cliff-top, seeing our first Painted Ladies of the day, and soon had an impressive view back.

The route now continued at a comfortable cliff top level and we continued to see more Painted Ladies. At the end of this section we passed above a series of quarries, one of which had left behind an impressive column of rock. But why? 

We passed behind the two Penhallic Points (Lower and Higher), noticing the white sails of some boats out to sea, the first we have seen on this trip. Approaching Tintagel, we saw the imposing spire of the isolated church of St Materiana. Pevsner calls it the best small Norman church in Cornwall.

Soon after that we had our first view of the great rocky island, linked to the mainland by a narrow footbridge. 

We made a visit and learned that the great castle of Richard Earl of Cornwall from 1233 was in fact in two parts, one on the mainland and the larger on the island. The association with King Arthur is even older and goes back to Geoffrey of Monmouth's History of the English kings of 1133. 

We saw a seal in Tintagel Haven …

 … and several Scarlet Tiger moths flying around on the hillside.

There was also a great view of the next headland, Barras Nose, notable for being the first piece of coast to be owned by the National Trust. From this angle you can begin to see why it might be called Barras Nose.

After we finished our exploration of Tintagel, we resumed the Coast Path, passing behind Barras Nose and following the cliff round to the next headland Willapark, with the Two Sisters rocks just off it (the smaller sister is hidden behind the larger one). Beyond this a pleasant bay opened up with Firebeacon Hill and a large rock (Long Island!) at its end. The coast here was quite indented and we wondered what it would be like.

Soon we descended a little, but still passed high above the exquisite Bosinney Cove.

After a short climb we followed a broad grassy path towards Rocky Valley. This turned out to a well-named and absolutely beautiful winding river valley flowing into the sea. as it wound its way inland the valley opened and became picturesque rather than dramatic.

After a long steep climb up from the valley bottom, we continued at a high level. Soon a view towards a second headland called Willapool opened up. The white lookout station was clearly visible on top of the headland. I liked the large rock on the right, which seemed to me to suggest a dog or bear sitting upright. It appears that no-one else has spotted this.

A wide grassy path descended to another inlet and after a steep climb we passed inland of the second Willapool and its lookout station. I loved the pony to the right and imagined that the lookout had ridden to work. A notice explained that ponies were being grazed on the headland, so perhaps that was the explanation.

I had thought the Boscastle lay just beyond this headland but the path continued relentlessly onwards towards a sort of inlet. What could it be?

As we turned the corner, we discovered the good news: it was the mouth of the long, narrow harbour.

As the harbour ended a river began. It was as though we had suddenly been transported to the Cotswolds. Boscastle of course suffered terrible flash flooding in 2004 as the result of heavy rain. Happily, physically at least, it is now restored.

Conditions: Warm and sunny - a beautiful day to on the coast. Others clearly thought so too and this was the most crowded section of the coast path we have yet walked on.

Grading: Moderate.

Map: Explorer 111 (Bude, Boscastle and Tintagel).

Distance: 6.8 miles. Distance now covered 489.1 miles.

Rating: Five stars. One of the best and most varied sections.

79 Port Gaverne to Trebarwith Strand

We picked up the route from Port Gaverne and, erroneously as it turned out, walked up the hill to a derelict hotel (we should have immediately turned right past the pub) and joined the coast path along a cliff top. The coast ahead was rocky and the section to Trabarwith Strand stretched out ahead of us (see photo above). The distant headland is Tintagel Island and the offshore rock is the unimaginatively named Gull Rock - just off from Trebarwith Strand. 

Shortly there was a clearer view. We were told by our taxi driver that there were said to be six ups-and-downs on this section (being a lifelong resident of the area he hadn't of course walked it himself) but we couldn't yet see where they were going to be.

The coast was again noticeably flowery and I have been thinking about resurrecting the Flower of the Day which I used to include in my posts some years ago. We saw lots of this beautiful blue flower. 

Now the first major descent loomed before us: down to Barrett's Zawn from a clifftop height of about 100m. A zawn is apparently a cut in the cliff, but it does not seem to be known who Barrett was. The headland is known as Delabole Point.

On the way down we made a pleasing discovery: a Green Hairstreak perching quietly by the side of the path on some bracken.  It was the first one of the year and only the third or fourth I have ever seen.

Once near the bottom, we could see the full extent of the long narrow valley heading inland. I realise that in practice I seldom take pictures of inland views. I think this is because the inland view is most often flat, a continuation of a coastal plateau, or uphill.

Having climbed up the other side, it wasn't too long before we descended again to another steep-sided valley, Dinnabroad. This time there were dramatic rock formations at the waterside. 

Now we climbed again to reach National Trust land called Dannonchapel. This time the cliff top lasted long enough to provide decent views back as far as The Rumps, albeit into the sun, ...

... and forward to Gull Rock and Tintagel, with the next descent and ascent already visible in the foreground.

This next descent was enliven by a Kestrel perched on a fence post and offered another beautiful valley winding inland.

Further on we passed inland of Tregardock Beach, protected at the back by a massive grassy rock named on the map as the Mountain. Viewed from the next cliff top the beach wasn't very inviting but a few hardy souls could be seen down there.

This really brought home to us that the last proper sandy beach we had seen was at Polzeath, ten miles or so back along the coast.

The path continued along the cliff top and was becoming noticeably rocky underfoot. Many of the rocks were beautifully coloured.

We came to a narrow cove with a good view of Gull Rock out to see and thought this might be the final descent, but no, another one lurked round the corner with another massive climb on the other side.

Finally, we made the very steep descent to Trebarwith Strand. Presumably more sand is exposed at low water.

Conditions: Quite warm but cloudy.

Grading: Severe.

Map: Explorer 106 (Newquay & Padstow) and 111 (Bude, Boscastle and Tintagel).

Distance: 6.2 miles. Distance now covered 482.3 miles.

Rating: Four and half stars. Hard, but exhilarating.

78 Port Quin to Port Gaverne

 

Port Quin

Port Quin apparently had a 94 residents in 1841, but now there are just a few holiday cottages, a National Trust car park and a rocky cove. The walk starts of course by climbing up to the cliffs on the right of the inlet and following a high level path towards Kellan Head. There is a lovely view across the inlet towards Doyden Castle (described in yesterday's post Rock to Port Quin) and out to sea is the large rock called The Mouls.

 

Kellan Head is a rocky, but not especially imposing headland. This is view back towards The Rumps

 

Once round the headland the coast stretches ahead to Varley Head. Port Isaac is two coves beyond it. Tintagel Island can be made out on the far left in the background.

We continued along a high level path, but after a while it make a rapid descent to near sea level and then back up to the cliff top. After this it continued at a pleasant mid-cliff level, before dropping again and requiring another steep climb to regain the cliff top. This view, looking back, shows the various meanders.

Now the white houses of Port Isaac could be seen beyond Varley Head.

We passed inland of Varley Head and then climbed down a steep and lengthy flight of steps to reach the pretty Pine Haven.

Passing inland of Lobber Point brought us to some excellent views over Port Isaac. The large number of white vans parked on the small beach were film crews working on the TV series Doc Martin. As we walked through the narrow streets we could see tourists photographing people (actors?) going into a house, a scene involving an people on the beach and a large number of people waiting by the side of the main street for someone to arrive as film people with walkie-talkies passed messages to each other. Not having seen Doc Martin, I have no idea what any of this was about, but it was a bit different from the usual arrival at a pretty fishing port.

It remained only to walk around another headland and then down the road to Port Gaverne.

Conditions: Warm but a bit cloudy.

Grading: Strenuous.

Map: Explorer 106 (Newquay & Padstow).

Distance: 3.9 miles. Distance now covered 476.1 miles.

Rating: Four stars.

77 Rock to Port Quin

 

Padstow seen from Rock

We are back on the Coast Path and we start out from Rock by looking across the Camel towards Padstow. Almost immediately there is a fine view out along the estuary 

We follow a path along the back of the beach through dunes, where there are great number of Pyramidal Orchids.  We round Daymer Bay to reach the large sandy beach at Polzeath (pronounced Polzeth). There is some wonderfully stratified rock at the edge of this large sandy beach, clearly popular with surfers. 

After a short break for refreshments, we walk along the right side of the large beach ...

 ... and then head past New Polzeath to spot this lovely art nouveau influenced house, Medla,  overlooking a small bay.

We follow a path along the grassy headland towards Pentire Head, passing a sheltered area where we see lots of Small Heath butterflies and the odd Meadow Brown. The views from Pentire Head are stupendous: back to Polzeath …

…. and across Padstow Bay.

Rounding Pentire Head we soon come on Ramps Head, which seems to have a strong resemblance to a Stegosaurus (the darker of the humps is in fact a small offshore island, The Mouls). In this area we started to see Painted Lady butterflies in some numbers.

Passing behind Ramps Head brings us into Port Quin Bay and as the coast bends there is a view ahead to Kellan Head. Port Quin is in an inlet off this section of coast, but we can't tell which. 

At Carnweather Point there is a fantastic view back. The exciting thing was over to the left you can see right across the base of Pentire Point to the mouth of the Camel and the Daymark tower on the opposite bank. 

We pass behind Lundy Cove and then the delightful, but inaccessible, Epphaven Cove.

And soon we can see Doyden Castleon a hill in the centre, which we know is right by Port Quin.

Finally, we approach and then climb up to see Doyden Castle. It is basically square with bay windows on two sides. This "especially picturesque folly" (Pevsner) was built by Samuel Simms, a Wadebridge merchant, as a pleasure house. It is now a National Trust holiday cottage.

It is now clear that Port Quin lies some way up an inlet with an almost fjord-like character and the grassy path on the right led us to a road which led down to the port.

Conditions: Quite warm and sunny after the initial cloud cleared.

Grading: Moderate.

Map: Explorer 106 (Newquay & Padstow).

Distance: 8.6 miles. Distance now covered 472.2 miles.

Rating: Four and a half stars.