69 Godrevy Point to Portreath

Seals in Mutton Cove near Godrevy Point

We picked up the Coast Path at Godrevy Point and headed on along the high (say 60m) cliffs. We noticed that a section of the cliff edge had a wooden barrier. On it were the words "Please speak only in whispers. Any sudden movement or noise can disturb the seals." Seals? We looked down and there stretched out across the sandy beach of Mutton Cove were maybe 70 Grey Seals.

We have had a few glimpses of Grey Seals at other points on the Coast Path, but to see such a large group was a real joy. They were mostly motionless, but every so often one would move awkwardly across the sand. These two seemed to be engaged in foreplay.

Soon the route entered a new environment: heathland. This is the view looking back over beautiful bright yellow broom towards Navax Point.

The coast gradually becomes more rocky.

But for the time being you continue on a cliff top path, now about 85 m above sea level, with a wide plateau inland. The coast stretches out ahead apparently promising more of the same.

Things change a bit further on with the Crane Islands in the foreground and the Samphire Islands beyond. In between lies a classic Coast Path descent to near sea level followed by a steep climb. You can see the gap in the cliff top on the right of the photo.

By now the rain which had been threatening for a while caught up with us as we made another descent and ascent at Carvannel Downs.

Finally we reached Western Hill overlooking Portreath and made our way down to the car park where we had left the car.

Conditions: not cold, but wet and grey.

Grading: Moderate.

Distance: 7.5 miles (distance now completed 415.0 miles).

Map: Explorer 102 (Land's End) and 104 (Redruth and St Agnes).

Rating: four stars.

68 Hayle to Godrevy Point

We picked up the Coast Path again in Hayle and crossed a bridge to head along the North Quay. Behind us was the rather lovely church of St Elwyn. It dates from 1886-8 and was the work of J D Sedding, the architect of Truro cathedral and of the restoration of St Uny, across the estuary. In front of the church was the delightful Church Hall of 1905, looking like a church itself.  I am describing this rather than presenting a photograph because it was already raining, in sharp contract to the lovely weather yesterday evening.

Once we were clear of the quay we passed through an area of holiday homes, some ramshackle and other quite imposing. This was Hayle Towans, a towan is a sand dune. The rather urban route continued into The Towans and then, more exotically, Mexico Towans.

At the end of Mexico Towans, the path follows the back of the enormous sandy beach through the sand downs, now un-named. It was hard going with constant ups and downs over often quite soft sand. There were numerous parallel paths and it was hard to be sure that you were on the right one - but perhaps it didn't really matter.

As we headed further north we began to notice a nice line in slate waymarks pointing the way ahead over the dunes. The rain had finally stopped so it was possible to take a photo.

After Gwithian Towans, the sandy Godrevy beach stretched out ahead, with various random walkers and kite fliers offered a bit of interest.

At the end of the beach you begin a more conventional section of coastal path which leads round to Godrevy Point. Just off the Point is Godrevy Island which houses a still operational lighthouse of 1858–1859.

At Godrevy Point we called it a day.

Conditions: not cold, but wet and grey.

Grading: Moderate.

Distance: 4.2 miles (distance now completed 407.5 miles).

Map: Explorer 102 (Land's End).

Rating: three and a half stars.

67 St Ives to Hayle

Porthminster Beach, St Ives

It's the start of of our annual progression along the South West Coast Path and we pick up the route by St Ives station, overlooking the beautiful Porthminster Beach. The path runs above the beach and then climbs further towards Porthminster Point. As you progress St Ives harbour opens itself up to view.

Beyond the point lies the equally sandy Carbis Bay.

You descend to just behind the beach and climb again to emerge overlooking Port Kidney Sands at the mouth of the Hayle River.

The path follows the dunes at the back of this vast sandy area and turns inland to follow the estuary. The tower of St Uny's church at Lelant dominates the view. According to Pevsner, Lelant was an important sea port in medieval times. The church is originally Norman, but mainly 15th century with late Victorian renovation by J D Sedding, the architect of Truro Cathedral.

Soon there is a good view across the estuary towards Hayle.

After the church the route becomes more suburban as you pass through new housing developments and then follow the road around the edge of the wide estuary into the town of Hayle. The last couple of miles are a bit boring to be honest.

Conditions: beautiful late afternoon sunshine.

Distance: 6.1 miles (distance now completed 403.3 miles).

Map: Explorer 102 (Land's End).

Grading: Easy.

Rating: three and a half stars.