78 Port Quin to Port Gaverne

 

Port Quin

Port Quin apparently had a 94 residents in 1841, but now there are just a few holiday cottages, a National Trust car park and a rocky cove. The walk starts of course by climbing up to the cliffs on the right of the inlet and following a high level path towards Kellan Head. There is a lovely view across the inlet towards Doyden Castle (described in yesterday's post Rock to Port Quin) and out to sea is the large rock called The Mouls.

 

Kellan Head is a rocky, but not especially imposing headland. This is view back towards The Rumps

 

Once round the headland the coast stretches ahead to Varley Head. Port Isaac is two coves beyond it. Tintagel Island can be made out on the far left in the background.

We continued along a high level path, but after a while it make a rapid descent to near sea level and then back up to the cliff top. After this it continued at a pleasant mid-cliff level, before dropping again and requiring another steep climb to regain the cliff top. This view, looking back, shows the various meanders.

Now the white houses of Port Isaac could be seen beyond Varley Head.

We passed inland of Varley Head and then climbed down a steep and lengthy flight of steps to reach the pretty Pine Haven.

Passing inland of Lobber Point brought us to some excellent views over Port Isaac. The large number of white vans parked on the small beach were film crews working on the TV series Doc Martin. As we walked through the narrow streets we could see tourists photographing people (actors?) going into a house, a scene involving an people on the beach and a large number of people waiting by the side of the main street for someone to arrive as film people with walkie-talkies passed messages to each other. Not having seen Doc Martin, I have no idea what any of this was about, but it was a bit different from the usual arrival at a pretty fishing port.

It remained only to walk around another headland and then down the road to Port Gaverne.

Conditions: Warm but a bit cloudy.

Grading: Strenuous.

Map: Explorer 106 (Newquay & Padstow).

Distance: 3.9 miles. Distance now covered 476.1 miles.

Rating: Four stars.