103 Porlock Weir to Minehead

The end of the South West Coast Path

This is the final leg of the SW Coast Path! We set off from Porlock Weir in light drizzle, looking across the rocky beach towards Hurlstone Point. A small tower can just be made out part-way up.

We followed the road through the village and turned left to walk along the back of the beach for a while, passing the wooden stakes indicating the oyster beds.

Soon we had to turn inland because of a "breach". We followed a well-trodden path which eventually turned back towards the sea, passing a dramatic stand of dead trees.

We passed through the pretty village of Bossington, where we especially admired the brick columns of the cattle byre attached to one house.

We then began a long climb, passing inland of Hurlstone Point and thereby missing the small tower which we had seen from afar. I learn from Google that it is a coastguard lookout tower which was built in 1902, and remained in use until 1983.

We were now climbing Hurlstone Combe where we soon reached the heather line and plodded on up the long slope.

 At the very top there was a great view back towards Porlock Weir ...

... and also a fine one inland towards Porlock.

Soon afterwards we ignored the sign for the "Rugged Coast Path" to continue along the regular Coast Path across moorland, passing Selworthy Beacon at 308 metres, only 10 metres lower than the Great Hangman which we climbed recently on the Combe Martin to Hunters Inn section. It turned out that we had somehow drifted off the official path at this point and it took us a while to edge our way back onto the correct route.

By the time we achieved this we were opposite Grexy Combe with North Cliff largely out of shot to its right. The trees were quite picturesque.

As we approached Minehead we were rejoined by the Rugged Coast Path. We were still over 200m above sea level and soon the path made a zig-zag turn towards the sea. The variations in colour were fascinating.

We descended steadily and entered some woodland, emerging eventually onto a minor road which took us into Minehead. It was interesting to see the stony beach in the foreground and the sandy one in the distance. We concluded that at some point in time the rocks had been cleared from the sandy area.

We headed inland in search of the Duke of Wellington in Wellington Square. We passed these rather lovely Coastguard Cottages built in a lovely red sandstone, which we quickly discovered was characteristic of the town.

Just before Wellington Square is Mansion House Lane where the Quirke Almshouses are to be seen. Founded 1630 by Edward Quirke, merchant and mariner, and restored 1986. Note the bellcote at the far end: it reputedly houses a bell from one of Robert Quirke's ships.

Wellington Square is home to St Andrew's church, in front of which is this fine statue of Queen Anne, by Bird who made the similar one which stands outside St Paul's in London.

We now adjourned to the rooftop beer garden of the Duke of Wellington to celebrate our completion of the South West Coast Path with a nice bottle of Wetherspoon's reasonably priced Moet et Chandon.

Conditions: Quite warm, but mainly cloudy.
 
Distance: 9.5 miles.
 
Map: Explorer OL 9 (Exmoor).
 
Grading:  Moderate.
 
Rating: four stars.

60 Penzance to Lamorna Cove

We turned right out of our B&B and walked along the Western Promenade with the wide expanse of Mount's Bay to our left. After a shortish time we are forced away from the promenade because the sea wall is being repaired, reconstructed even. More damage from the February storms no doubt.

We follow the road into Newlyn and admire the 1894 art gallery, above.  It was designed by James Hicks for the Newlyn School of Art. The brass panels depict birds, mammal, reptiles and fish.

We were now able to rejoin the coast path proper at this dramatic statue of 2007 by Tom Leaper. It is a monument to fisherman lost at sea. The building works can be seen behind the statue while St Mary's church and the Penzance Lido are in the background.

Newlyn was once a fishing village and artists colony, but now it is an unglamorous commercial fishing port, one of the largest in the country. As we climb the road out of it there is an interesting view back across the bay to Penzance. The lighthouse at Newlyn harbour mouth can be seen to the left. It seems appropriate that fishing is a major leisure activity. 

We follow the path past Penlee Point to come down to Mousehole. We are surprised to find a sandy beach at the back of the small harbour, with families enjoying themselves among the hawsers.

In the village we are struck by the 14th century Keigwin House. Apparently Lord Keigwin was killed in a raid by the Spanish in 1595. It is the oldest house in the village, although the porch on its four granite posts dates from about 1700 according to Pevsner.

It is a steep climb out of Mousehole, but there is a great view looking back.

The next section is much more unspoilt, with a very rocky path and some steep climbs and descents. This is a view back across Mounts Bay. St Michael's Mount can be seen on the horizon.

It was good butterfly territory and we saw many Gatekeepers as well as Red Admiral, Small Tortoiseshell, Peacock, Comma, three species of White, Ringlet, Meadow Brown, Speckled Wood and Large Skipper; twelve species in all.

At Carn Du point the not very inspiring Lamorna Cove came into view. The pretty name turns out to be misleading.

Looking back, the rocky headland of Carn Du was quite imposing.

Conditions: warm and sunny.

Distance: 5.6 miles (distance now covered 362.2 miles.

Map: Explorer 102 (Land's End).

Grading: Moderate to Mousehole and Strenuous thereafter.

Rating: four stars.