10 Flower's Barrow to Lulworth Cove

Worborrow Bay from Flower's Barrow

We decided to carry on where we left off yesterday at Flower's Barrow. Our circular walk approach to the SWCP meant that essentially we had to do a there-and-back walk from Lulworth Cove, as there was no other sensible start point and a very limited choice of alternative paths. 

We set off from the tourist car park and walked down the sloping street to the Cove itself, taking the stairs on the left to climb the hill above the cove. At the top we headed on up the very steep hill to find the start of the path which follows the ridge parallel to the coast. This chalky hill is a fine butterfly site and we saw several Chalkhill and Adonis Blues.

Soon we entered the Army Ranges, noticing as we did two squaddies with massive backpacks who were presumably out on some sort of punishment run.  

We headed along the stony, chalky track past what seemed to be a massive TV aerial, enjoying fine views to the north and, from this point on, the sight of a tremendous sweep of coastline from St Aldhelm's Head in the east to Swyre Head and Portland in the west. To the left, inland, the Lulworth Army camp and training ground stretched out with a large network of tracks and sundry wrecked and rusty tanks scattered across it.

We walked along the top of Bindon Hill, with the long slope leading up to Flower's Barrow all too visible in front of us. We saw a number of Wall Browns here basking in the sunshine.

We thought the ridge continued all the way, but first there is a steep descent to Arish Mell at sea level. The little beach here is closed and a crew of workmen doing something with what seemed to be an outlet of some sort. A Google search yielded a suggestion that there was once an outlet here from the Winfrith Atomic Energy Establishment. So perhaps it is being repaired.

On the other side, a long winding slope led steeply up to Flower's Barrow. Once we were there, the view back along the coast was superb. 

Now we began this leg of the Coast Path in the correct direction! Walking down the long slope was actually more taxing than climbing it had been. The toes and knees complained loudly. Then it was straight back up the other side to the ridge leading to Bindon Hill.

The views forward over Mupe Bay, with Mupe Rocks behind were very fine. 

As we descended Bindon Hill towards Mupe Bay, the chalk cliffs provided an impressive sight along the coastline.

At the bottom, we went to the corner of the small bay housing Mupe Rocks and puzzled over the extraordinary angle at which the strata of rock were pointing.

There was now a flat section along a grassy cliff-top path overlooking the Fossil Forest. This is a literal description rather than a fanciful one. 144m years ago there was a forest here which was flooded under a shallow, saline lagoon. Thick mats of algae grew across the forest floor and around the base of the trees and fallen logs.  Sediment stuck to the this and built up over time to form the large doughnut-shaped rings that can be seen today around the trees and wood.

At the end of this section you reach the mouth of Lulworth Cove, with Portland and Weymouth in sight beyond.

We climbed the long sequence of steps to the side of the cove and walked along the lower path at the top enjoying a fine view of the cove.

Then it was down the path and steps on the other side to walk back up the lane to the car - via a well-deserved drink in a bar on the way.

Conditions: sunny, hot.

Distance: about 7 miles, of which only 3 were on the Coast Path. Distance covered now 28 miles.

Map: Explorer OL15 (Purbeck and South Dorset).

Rating: four and a half stars.

Reflections

The walk took us far longer than a walk of this length normally would. Obviously this was due to the five steep climbs or descents that it included - and the consequent rests that they entailed. It led us to think that we need a better way of estimating the time required for this sort of walk and I remembered my friend John once saying that with Alpine walking the total change of height was often a better predictor of time taken than the linear distance. In this case the eight climbs/descents amounted to over a kilometer of change of level.

Secondly, I realised that I still need to improve my map-reading skills in order to identify all these changes in advance, rather than be surprised by them.

When we looked in the SWCP Handbook we were delighted to see that the Lulworth to Kimmeridge section was rated "Severe" - the highest rating on a scale starting at "Easy". Who would have thought we could have handled Severe without any great difficulty?

9 Kimmeridge to Worbarrow Bay and Flower's Barrow

Worbarrow Bay

We picked up the SWCP at Kimmeridge, keen to get through the section which goes through the MOD Lulworth Ranges while they are open in August. We left Kimmeridge along the road, passed the BP "Nodding Donkey" Oil Well and entered the MOD land through the gate, pleased to be wished "Happy walking" - not like the MOD of old!

You walk along a broad grassy path with two of the Kimmeridge ledges, Broad Bench and Long Ebb, below. Hobarrow Bay lies between them and is succeeded by Brandy Bay. The Gad Cliff is in view ahead (see below) as you swing inland to climb towards and then pass beneath the large grassy hill of Tyneham Cap.

At about this point we encountered the advance guard of the heroic runners racing from Weymouth to Swanage (32 miles!). We would see many more in various states of fitness as our walk progressed.

As we walked along Gad Cliff there was a fine view back along the coast with the two ledges clearly displayed and St Aldhelm's head dimly visible in the background.

You then walk along Gold Down to reach the high ground above Worbarrow Bay. As you descend the large mound on the nearside of the bay becomes clearly visible. This is Worbarrow Tout - tout is an old word for a lookout point.

You descend right to sea level at the back of the beach and as you approach it there is a great view of the wide expanse of the bay.

  

Now the path climbs right to the top of the hill to reach Flower's Barrow. It could clearly be seen to become ever steeper the nearer you get to the top.

Still, after a quite strenuous climb the view back over Worbarrow Bay and Tout was very impressive.

We now left the Coast Path for today and turned inland along a ridge. This is the end of the Purbeck Ridge which runs in a grands curve from Ballard Point via Corfe Castle to here. The main views are inland to the north. It is mainly flat, but Lulworth Castle provides a focal point.

After a mile or so, we left this track and took a path downhill to pass through Tyneham, the celebrated deserted village. It was taken over by the Army in 1944 for rehearsals for the D Day landings and retained in MOD ownership after the war.

There is not a lot there but some of the main buildings, including the restored church, are clearly visible as you approach.

The old telephone box looked suitably nostalgic.

From here, we followed a grassy path zig-zagging up to rejoin the coastal path above Gad Cliff and retraced our steps to Kimmeridge Bay. 

Conditions: cloudy, hot.

Distance: about 7 miles, of which about 3.5 were on the Coast path. Distance covered now 24.5 miles.

Map: Explorer OL15 (Purbeck and South Dorset).

Rating: four stars.


Flower of the day

I saw this rather wonderful yellow poppy-like flower on the incline above Brandy Bay. Frustratingly, I have been unable to identify it.